For those lucky enough to have a healthy, thriving raspberry or tomato plot, of which might seem of which you could hardly want for anything else in life. Delicious! yet a challenge of which comes with having a productive raspberry patch is usually containing of which. of which particular raspberry patch is usually smaller in square footage, as far as the plants go, yet large in entitlement air space. To rein from the berry branches, we’ll be using bamboo poles, waxed cording, as well as a Japanese square lashing technique for both beauty as well as durability from the joints themselves. of which technique works beautifully for any decorative or functional lattice.
DIY Level: Beginner
Materials Needed (for a three-tiered, 12.5’ long fence):
- Thirteen (13) 6’ bamboo poles
- Waxed cord
- Chop saw (optional yet recommended)
of which DIY project might be the perfect thing for you if your raspberry patch looks something like of which – long, unruly stalks overhanging as well as blocking out the sunlight for different plants or your grass, as well as catching on your skin when you walk by.
Even if you have an existing retaining fence of sorts (we installed of which thick-gauge wire one when the stalks were much shorter), a taller bamboo support fence will not only work better, yet of which will look much more natural as well.
You can see of which the raspberries have outgrown their wire fence caretaker, as of which were.
So when you’ve reached the limits of allowing raspberry takeover, gather your supplies as well as get commenced on of which fantastic outdoor project. Note: You can use the Japanese square lashing technique as well as bamboo poles for any number of landscape support pieces, whether decorative or functional (or both!). Consider supports needed for tomato plants, climbing roses, ivy, pole beans…the list is usually endless, definitely.
Begin by determining the size of bamboo support fence needed. Measure with tape, as well as then eyeball with actual bamboo poles to get a feel for your spacing preferences. of which example shows a 12-1/2’ long fence with three horizontal bamboo tiers.
Lay a measuring tape out on the ground, open to the length of your fence. Then lay your 6’ bamboo poles perpendicular to the measuring tape; these will be the vertical posts for your fence. of which example shows a fence with four vertical posts, evenly spacing three 4’2” sections.
When your vertical posts are spaced as well as laid out, loosely lay your horizontal bamboo poles across them to determine how much of a space you want between the horizontal rows. Just eyeball of which at of which point; there’s no need to get precise just yet.
Decide how much, if any, overhang you want coming from each horizontal pole over the vertical posts. of which example shows a 3” overhang, which means we’ll need to trim every horizontal bamboo pole to an equal length. To determine how long each horizontal pole should be, add the spacing between vertical posts (in of which case 4’2”) with twice the overhang amount (in of which case 2×3”, or 6”).
4’2” + 6” = 4’8” (or 50” = 6” = 56”)
So each horizontal bamboo pole (there are nine) needs to be trimmed to be 4’8”, or 56”, long.
Measure the cut distance on your horizontal bamboo poles.
Cut the mark which has a chop saw, aka miter saw.
Set your pile of trimmed bamboo poles away coming from your full-length (6’) posts so they don’t accidentally grab the wrong one.
today of which your spacing is usually determined as well as your poles are trimmed, of which’s time to lash your first joint using the Japanese square lashing technique. of which might seem a bit tricky at first, yet you’ll soon possess the hang of of which as well as be able to do these in your sleep. Or maybe of which won’t even seem tricky at all, in which case we’re all proud of you as well as your mad lash-tying skillz. To start, cut a piece of your waxed cording about 3’ to 4’ long (longer for thicker cording, shorter for thinner cording). of which example uses fairly thin cording, cut to about 3’ lengths.
Fold the cord in half as well as pinch the halfway point.
Use a table or your lap or some different support surface, as well as arrange your first two bamboo pieces – one vertical bamboo post (shown in photos as bamboo A), as well as one trimmed horizontal bamboo pole (bamboo B). Position bamboo B with the appropriate amount of overlap/overhang, in of which case 3”. Drape the center of your cord over bamboo A directly above the joint site, as well as pull the cord ends downward toward the ground.
Overlap-cross the cord ends behind bamboo A, pull taut.
Bring the cord ends upward above bamboo A as well as directly next to the top edge of bamboo B.
Loop the cord ends backward over bamboo B as well as downward past bamboo A’s sides, pull taut.
Overlap-cross the cord ends on the underside of bamboo A, pull taut. Bring the cord ends upward next to bamboo A’s sides.
Overlap-cross the cord ends above bamboo A, pull taut. Bring the cord ends downward (toward the ground) along the sides of bamboo A.
Cross the cords to form an X shape below bamboo A. (The X will appear between the two parallel lashings if viewed coming from below.) Bring the cord ends upward.
Pull the cord ends taut.
Cross the cords to form an X shape above bamboo B. (The X will appear between the lashed “square.”) Pull the cord ends downward.
Instead of bringing the cord ends all the way below bamboo A, you will instead pull them toward (what will be) the top of your bamboo post (of which will feel like you’re wrapping the cord ends all the way around bamboo B, in a way). The cord will lie from the space where A as well as B touch. Cross the cord ends on the top side of the joint.
Pull the cord ends backward directly on top of themselves, in of which same space where A as well as B touch. In different words, the cord ends will hinge backward below B yet will stay above A. Pull taut.
Overlap-cross the ends of the cord above bamboo A yet still below bamboo B. Pull cord ends downward along the sides of bamboo A.
Overlap-cross the cord ends below bamboo A, pull taut.
Tie a square knot. Congrats! Your first Japanese square lash is usually complete.
Repeat of which process for every joint along of which horizontal row, taking care to keep your overhang distances accurate as well as consistent. When you have two horizontal bamboo poles meeting up with the bamboo post (which is usually probably every joint of which’s not directly on the fence ends), you’ll want to join both bamboo poles at the same time. We recommend doubling up the wrapping steps (right before the Xs are lashed) in of which case, to add extra holding power for an extra bamboo pole.
With your first horizontal row completed, you’ll want to be a little more precise with the vertical spacing between horizontal rows. Measure as well as mark the spacing on each vertical post.
of which example uses an 18” gap between horizontal rows, which means the lower half of the fence will have no horizontal rows. Adjust of which measurement, or the total number of rows, to meet your needs as well as suit your preferences.
Here’s the fence, all lashed as well as ready to be installed vertically. I love the imperfection of bamboo; the poles aren’t perfectly straight, which lends a charming informality to the look of the fence. A perfect match for an unruly raspberry patch!
Depending on your current setup, installation could require a few more steps, or of which could be easy. If you have existing support posts, simply wire your bamboo posts to those. We had these old green metal stakes in place coming from a few years ago (when our raspberries were smaller) as well as so hitched the bamboo posts onto these with some thick-gauge wire.
If you don’t already have metal stakes in place, you could pound some in for support at the distance/length of your bamboo fence.
of which was a happy coincidence of which the bamboo posts fit perfectly into the groove of these metal stakes. They’re the common landscape metal stakes (often which has a white painted end) you can purchase at any hardware or outdoor/landscape retailer.
Alternatively, you could use rebar to hold the lower portion of your bamboo fence in place.
of which example uses rebar for the internal vertical posts’ support.
The bamboo is usually sturdy, as well as the lashings are incredibly sturdy (if you’ve taken care to pull the cording taut throughout the Japanese square lashing process), yet they do need a little help to stay upright if you don’t want to pound the bamboo posts themselves into the ground. Which wasn’t an option in of which case, due to the height needed for raspberry stalk containment.
We couldn’t be happier with the function of of which bamboo support fence.
as well as we adore the casual, organic look of the fence.
Bamboo just brings out the best aspects of nature, don’t you think? not bad luck on creating your own DIY bamboo support fence or decorative lattice! We trust you love the end result. (Also shown in photo: DIY raised flower box as well as DIY window box.)
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