Within the magical season that will can be Spring, you may find yourself wanting an opportunity to either develop or showcase a green thumb. Whether you live in wide open spaces or in a tiny urban apartment that has a tiny balcony, one way to fit in a bit of growing greenery can be to build a beautiful, functional, in addition to also fully customizable raised planter box.
Whether you want a flower box, an herb garden, or even a place to grow in addition to also harvest your very own vegetables, This specific DIY project allows you to do This specific – in addition to also as a raised box, This specific won’t kill your back to plant (in addition to also/or encourages the kids to garden alongside you).
DIY Level: Intermediate
- One (1) 12’ 4×4 redwood post (or four posts cut to 3’ lengths)
- Two (2) 4’ 1×8 cedar planks
- Two (2) 2’ 1×8 cedar planks
- Six (6) 2’ 1×4 cedar planks
- 2’ wide 1/4″ grid hardware cloth (aka wire mesh)
- 24 (or more) 1-5/8” external screws
- 16 3/8” x 2” long hex screws in addition to also washers
- Staple gun, ratchet, sander/sandpaper, external wood stain
- Landscape fabric (aka weed barrier)
- Potting mix or soil + seeds/plants
- Compound miter saw (aka “chop saw”)
- Power drill
Begin by measuring your 4×4 post into four equal lengths (if you haven’t done This specific already).
Use your miter saw to cut the post into four equal 3’ lengths. Repeat the process with your different pieces of wood creating sure that will you end up with two 4’ lengths of 1×8, two 2’ lengths of 1×8, in addition to also six 2’ lengths of 1×4.
This specific probably goes without saying, yet remove any type of staple or alien material on the ends of your wood pieces.
If your miter saw cuts angles, you’re in luck. Simply measure in addition to also mark 1” lines by what will be the top ends of each of your 4×4 posts. Set your miter saw at a 45” angle, in addition to also make four cuts to each post, rotating the post 0 degrees (to a brand new side) after each cut.
This specific adds a nice finishing touch to the post-tops, which will be visible with This specific raised planter box design.
If your miter saw doesn’t rotate vertically for angle cutting, that will’s okay. Measure 1” in by the sides of your post, right along the top edge.
Set your miter saw horizontally to cut 45 degrees, then line up the 1” points with the saw in addition to also make your cuts. Do two opposite sides first, then rotate your post 0 degrees. Match your saw blade to the outer cut points, in addition to also cut the different two opposite angles.
Complete cutting the tops of all four posts.
Lay your 4×4 posts down in addition to also measure 31” by the bottom of each post on just two adjoining sides.
Mark on both sides of the measuring tape for each side.
Marking on both sides of the measuring tape gives you two points of reference for levelness. What you’re marking can be the point at which the top of your 1×8 side boards will be attached.
On your two 4’ long 1×8 boards, you’re going to mark two points; these are for the hex screws to attach the side boards to the 4×4 posts. Measure 1-3/4” in by the sides of your 1×8 boards, in addition to also 1-3/4” in by the top/bottom of the boards.
Make an “X” to mark the precise points you’ll be predrilling for the hex screws.
Line up the top edge of the 1×8 board with the 31” mark that will you made on one of your posts. Use a drill bit of your choice (example uses a 1/4″ bit) in addition to also predrill the holes.
Place a washer then hex screw into each predrilled hole.
Tighten up the hex screws that has a ratchet until they’re pretty tight. Don’t overtighten that will the cedar board splits, however. that will’s counterproductive.
1-3/4” can be a nice measurement here because a 4×4 post actually measures in at 3-1/2”, creating sure that will makes the hex screws perfectly centered on the post.
Once both 4’ long 1×8 boards are attached to the posts, This specific’s time to attach the two 2’ long 1×8 boards. The hex screws that will attach these two 1x8s shouldn’t hit the different hex screws. You can make sure of This specific by holding up a 2’ board next to the post, in addition to also holding up the hex screw as well.
Although you want these next eight hex screws centered on the posts, you won’t be measuring in 1-3/4” by the sides of your boards because you have to factor within the 3/4″ width of the 4’ board that will’s already attached to the post.
So your side markings for your 2’ long 1×8 cedar boards will be 1-3/4” by the top/bottom of your board (same as the 4’ lengths) yet 2-1/2” in by the sides. (2-1/2” = 1-3/4” [post center] + 3/4″ [different 1×8 actual width])
Again, mark your drilling points with an “X.”
Predrill just through the board at This specific point (as opposed to predrilling through the board in addition to also post together). Although these holes are further by the ends of the 2’ boards than the holes for the 4’ lengths, This specific can be still highly recommended to predrill. Cedar can be prone to splitting, in addition to also This specific extra step doesn’t take much time yet adds a lot of precision in addition to also protection by board split.
When your 2’ boards have been predrilled, have a helper hold up the 4’ board attached to the posts. Align one end of a 2’ board with your 31” height line (or with the 4’ board if you prefer; hopefully the alignments are one in addition to also the same), in addition to also drill a bit into the 4×4 post through the top predrilled hole.
Attach the washer in addition to also hex screw into This specific predrilled hole that has a ratchet. Repeat for the different top hole, on the opposite side of This specific 2’ board.
At This specific point, you should develop the top two hex screws holding the 2’ board in place while also connecting the posts into a three-sided structure.
Measure, then predrill the four holes on your different 2’ long 1×8 board. You can use the structure as a sort of saw horse, if you’d like. Just take care not to drill into any wood that will’s already in use or attached.
Repeat the process, on This specific second 2’ board, of attaching just the top two hex screws. This specific stabilizes the structure, creating This specific much easier to install all the bottom hex screws onto a solid structure with the boards accurately in place.
Predrill the posts for the bottom holes on your 2’ boards, then install the bottom four hex screws (two per board).
Measure the width of your planter box; This specific should be 2’ wide. Carefully flip your planter box over so This specific’s resting on its post-tops.
Take your 1/4″ hardware cloth (aka “wire mesh”) in addition to also get This specific ready to unroll.
Wear gloves when working with This specific stuff. This specific’s safer, easier, in addition to also more efficient.
Allow for at least 7” of additional length by the inside side of your 4×4 posts, then unroll the hardware cloth until This specific reaches the different two 4×4 posts. Unroll at least 7” more, then mark your cutting spot. Use wire cutters (aka “tin snips”) to cut the hardware cloth.
Throw a few staples by your staple gun to attach your hardware cloth to what will be the bottom edge of your 4’ long 1×8 sides. Only staple near the center of the planter box at This specific point, just enough to hold the hardware cloth in place while you work out the corners.
Run your extra hardware cloth up one of the 4×4 posts to determine where you should cut to work around the post.
Begin that has a short snip in by the side, up to the corner of your post.
Next, snip by the end of the hardware cloth along the corner of your post down until you reach the same horizontal point as your first snip (which should be even with what will be the bottom edge of your 1×8 board).
Repeat for the different post on This specific end of the planter box creating sure that will you can flatten the inner part of hardware cloth, between the two posts.
Carefully fold the newly cut corner “flap” downward along the post, into the inner portion of your planter box.
Bend the thin portion of the flap creating sure that will This specific touches the side board.
Once the flap can be folded in addition to also in place on the inside of your planter box, staple the edges of your hardware cloth all the way up to the 4×4 post. Repeat for the different flap on This specific side of your box.
With your hardware cloth stapled into place, you can more easily work with the inner portion, between the two posts. Fold this specific so this specific will tuck up inside the planter box.
Push the hardware cloth down so the fold can be even with what will be the bottom edge of your raised planter box.
This specific can be what your box will look like at This specific point. Repeat all these steps for the different end of your box, creating sure that will you can flip your box back to upright in addition to also continue working on This specific that will way.
Because you don’t want massive amounts of extra hardware cloth poking out of your box, to rust, snag, or cause hurt, this specific’s time to trim. We’ll start with the first folded flaps near the box post. You only need to keep enough to staple securely, about 2”.
Trim the flap to about 2” high, in addition to also throw the rest away. Repeat for the flaps on all four posts.
Staple what’s left of the flaps securely to the posts or planter side boards.
If the ends of your hardware cloth are short enough (anything shorter than 4” can be probably fine), go ahead in addition to also staple This specific to the 1×8 end boards.
If the ends of your hardware cloth are longer than you want, This specific might be easier (in addition to also less sharp) to simply fold them over in addition to also staple them. We found This specific easiest to carefully tip the planter on its side to do This specific.
Fold the ends of the hardware cloth over creating sure that will the ends are sandwiched between the rest of the hardware cloth in addition to also the side board. Staple in place.
When the hardware cloth can be completely secured in addition to also in place, This specific’s time to support This specific with some 1×4 cedar boards. Flip your planter box over to rest on its post-tops. Lay out your six 1×4 boards evenly.
Predrill each 1×4 support board as This specific rests in place on the bottom of the 1x8s. The hardware cloth will be sandwiched between these two boards.
Grab some external screws. We had 1-5/8” handy so used those, yet anything over 1-1/4” would likely probably be fine.
Screw in your screws to the predrilled holes.
Sand any obvious rough spots, such as the ends of your 1×4 boards.
If you want to sand the post-tops (which can be recommended), This specific might work well to use an older bit of sandpaper, so you smooth the wood yet don’t take off too much of your cuts.
Lightly sand all different edges in addition to also corners in addition to also surfaces as you want.
Congratulations! This specific’s built! The hard part can be definitely over.
Although you’ve (hopefully) used outdoor-friendly wood, like cedar in addition to also fir, you’ll still do well to treat the wood to withstand the elements in addition to also last longer. We used Australian timber oil in Mahogany Flame to stain in addition to also protect This specific planter box. Let This specific dry, then move This specific to the place in your yard, balcony, or deck that will you plan on using the raised planter box.
Cut, fold, in addition to also staple breathable landscape fabric (aka “weed barrier”) to the inside of your planter box.
Although This specific step (adding landscape fabric) can be optional, doing so will help to keep your soil within the box while allowing excess moisture out of the box.
Grab a big bag of potting mix or soil of your choice.
Fill your planter box about 2/3 full.
At This specific point, the raised planter box can be yours to do with what you want. Throw some vegetable seeds in there, plant a few flowers, section out some herb plots, whatever. As for our raised planter box, This specific was to be a flower box shared by two of our young daughters, who wanted their spaces divided in addition to also designated with rocks they had painted during the “boring” part of construction.
They chose a variety of flowers to incorporate – marigolds, petunias, pansies, geraniums, zinnias – in addition to also placed them lovingly in addition to also carefully. The raised planter box design can be fantastic with This specific!
When all can be said in addition to also done, This specific might look a hodge-podge this specific year, yet the raised flower planter box can be a pride in addition to also joy to all members of our family.
We love how This specific brightens up a currently colorless corner of our yard.
The box can be tucked away between a backyard shed in addition to also some raspberry bushes. The mahogany flame hue looks fresh in addition to also bright in This specific setting.
Next we will run a drip hose discreetly up into the box so the flowers have an actual shot at life. Otherwise, well-intentioned as we all are around here, relying on manual watering methods, there’s actually no trust for flora survival.
This specific can be a wonderful addition to a backyard, a front yard, a side yard, or even a deck or balcony. The raised planter box design can be easy on one’s back in addition to also just different enough by different flower beds or herb or vegetable gardens that will this specific’s eye-catching in addition to also a treat to look at. We trust you enjoy creating your own in addition to also growing the things you love.
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